Cruising in Barbuda

Barbuda is a remote island situated 30 NM north of Antigua, in the Leeward Islands. If you are chartering out of Antigua, and if you like isolation and beautiful beaches, this is "The" Caribbean island to visit. If you are a regular BVI charterer, it will make Anegada look like a tourist-infested, polluted sand pit. Only go in the summer months when there is no Northerly swell €“-when the swell is running the whole area can be dangerous.

Getting There

An excellent reference is the Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, by Chris Doyle. It should be noted that charts of Barbuda in general are unreliable because of the rapid undersea growth. Therefore, it should be approached with a lot of caution, high sunlight behind youand at slow speed. There is a good reason why there are some 200 shipwrecks around Barbuda: lots of reefs! As you read, you can view a map of Barbuda.

Leave from Deep Bay or Dickinson Bay on Antigua's West coast and set up the following Waypoints:

• DICBAY west of Dickinson Bay at 17º 10.52´N 61º 53.5´W
• DMOND NW of Diamond Bank 17º 12.8´N 61º 53.8´W
• WCODR: 1.2NM W. of Codrington Shoals at 17º 30´N 61º 51.5´W
• PALMPT: 0.6 NM S of Palmetto Point at 17º 34.1´N 61º 51.5´W

Note: The waypoints above are given only as an indication and should always be double-checked.

When at Palmetto Point go up the West side of Barbuda following the coast 200 yards offshore. Go slowly because 1.25NM North of Palmetto Point there is a shoal patch of 9 feet. This may change with hurricane activity.

Sailing in the region of Palmetto Point is somewhat difficult, as it is hard to judge your distance off Palmetto Point. Give the area a wide berth. Keep an eye on the color of the water and the echo sounder. The undersea area has grown. There is a nine foot bank beyond Palmetto Point. Just to the south of Oyster Pond Landing there are piles about four feet below the surface stretching 100 feet offshore.

Anchorages

1. North of Palmetto Point, anchoring is good off Oyster Point Landing between Tuson Rock and the mainland. There is a conspicuous group of palms on the beach that lines up a good anchorage.To starboard is an eleven mile beach, of beautiful clean soft sand, tinged with pink at the waterline, with absolutely nothing on it or near it. It is not unusual to stay there for days and not see one other person on the beach.
2. Coco Point: Recognized by the white buildings on shore is the Coco Point Lodge. The approach should be made with caution until a clear path is spotted through the reef. A seven to eight foot draft vessel can come quite close to shore. To the west is a good anchorage if the swell is down.When running westward from Coco Point to the tower give a wide berth to Spanish Wells Point to avoid the coral reefs offshore. There is an anchorage just off the tower but it is better to the southwest of the tower.
3. Spanish Point: An other excellent anchorage 1 3/4 miles east of Coco Point is Spanish Point. Approach only in good light. About 7Ft. of water can be carried fairly close in shore inside the reef by Spanish Point, but once the water shelves to twelve feet ease your way north eastward in good light and anchor where draft permits. There are two approaches recommended. The first is to pass windward of Palaster Reef, following in towards Spanish point until breakers on the reef to the south are spotted, bear off behind the reef and round up to anchor. The second is to approach from the west working eastward between Palaster Reef and the mainland until Spanish Point is bearing southeast.

Ashore

If you want supplies or if you'd like to see how the Caribbean used to be, visit the main town Codrington. To get there you will need a dinghy that the crew can drag c. 200 yards across the sand ridge between the sea and Codrington lagoon. At the time of writing the narrowest part was located at 17º 37.06´N and was marked with four small wooden stakes. 
It is 2NM across the lagoon to the village quay (so make sure you have lots of gasoline) and stay at least 300 yards off the Eastern shore of the lagoon, there are coral heads and other obstructions.

Alternatively, you can dinghy up the coast to the sea entrance. The town of Codrington is just across the lagoon. Stay about 40 feet out from the shore and proceed with caution. The channel into the lagoon is marked with white posts.

When in the village visit the bar (run by a seriously laid back Canadian, Oliver) which is the multicolored building on the right as you walk down the road away from the quay. 
The really adventurous can dinghy over for the Saturday night jump-up. Turn right leaving the bar, then first left and the shop is about 200 yards up the road on the right hand side. You will see live lobsters in a cage by the quay. Seek out Lincoln (everybody knows him) who owns them and he will probably sell you some.

After the West coast visit Cocoa Point on the South coast (navigation is straightforward from the chart). The hotel at Cocoa Point is shut during the Summer and if you are tempted to buy dinner at the K-Club along the beach be aware that the typical cost per head including a couple of drinks is C.US$180.

Getting Back (from Cocoa Point)

If you are heading for Antigua's East coast (Green Island) it is possible to cut across Dodington Banks if there is no big swell running. 
Set up the following waypoints:

• 1: at 17º 33.25´N 61º47.3´W
• 2: at 17º 30.85´N 61º 47.3´W

Following that Longitude we saw a least depth of 39 feet, DO NOT allow yourself to get set any further West and DO NOT use this if you are heading to Antigua's West coast. Leave really early because it is a long sail (generally a one tack beat) and the entry to Green Island can be difficult in bad light. If you can't make it into Green Island you'll have to go another 7 NM to English Harbour.

This is an island that will definitely bring out the adventurer in all of us!