Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao

Cruising Logs for the Coast of Colombia: Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao

Contributed By: Lourae and Randy Kenoffel (sy_pizazz@yahoo.com)

We, the crew of Pizazz, are pleased to provide this three-part "guide", a collection of our personal experiences, to fill in the blanks between Bonaire (which is in Doyle's Sailors Guide to Venezuela & Bonaire) and Panama (which is in Zydler's The Panama Guide).

The information that follows is our opinion only. We provide the essentials of cruising: where to find what you need. The information is sorted by category and we'll give you data by location.

Pizazz (a Beneteau 500) has day sailed along the Colombia coast three times (twice going west and once, doing the "impossible", going east). But everyone says "you shouldn't stop along that coast!" - including some guides which say your chances of survival aren't good. We believe there is a far greater risk offshore. This guide describes safe anchorages to enjoy, rest, wait for weather and make repairs, if needed. You can see some interesting areas along the coast and meet some very friendly people or you can by-pass all these wonderful anchorages by going direct from the ABCs to San Blas. You make your choice.

(Note from Sailonline.com: Only the texts related to Aruba, Bonaire & Curaçao are published here. The full text from the Kenoffels can be found at: http://www.caribbeancompass.com)

General Information

Notes of Caution (a.k.a. "CYA")
All GPS readings vary slightly depending on your equipment, availability of satellites, and input error. The GPS waypoints given are listed in degrees and minutes with hundredths of minutes (not seconds). These are waypoints for places to head towards or near anchoring spots; they are not designed to for you to connect-the-dots (do not go from waypoint to waypoint without checking your charts). People, USE YOUR CHARTS AND USE YOUR EYES.

A few important points to remember: First, don't be unrealistic in setting a schedule you can't meet. Second, watch for the right weather windows (see Weather section below). Third, PREPARE YOUR BOAT AND YOURSELF for downwind sailing in heavy seas - tacking downwind is easier on the rig, helps prevent accidental jibes, broken booms and poles, and is often faster and more comfortable. 
Be careful.

Weather
The key to cruising the Colombia coast safely and comfortably is weather. This is especially important if you plan an offshore passage, but is also important for coastal cruising. The entire Caribbean has two seasons: Wet Season - generally June through November, and Dry Season - generally December through May. If you travel in the "transition" months - late March through mid-June, or mid-October through mid-December - you are likely to have calmer conditions. Generally, the farther south you go, the lighter the winds.

The 400 miles between Aruba and Cartagena is known for the worst weather conditions in the Caribbean, and ranks among the top five worst passages around the world. So plan ahead and watch for calm predictions. The "weather gurus" almost always say to stay at least 200 miles off-shore (they base this not on weather but upon a fear of the coast). We have found that off-shore the conditions are stronger. By staying close to shore (within 5 to 10 miles) you may experience some land effect on the weather, often beneficial for your cruising; at times it is possible to use the currents and counter-currents. And, as mentioned above, you can always stop for needed rest or repairs.

Security
Check with other cruisers for current security situations. Lower your anxiety level by setting up radio contacts or buddy boats. When you are at anchor, use your anchor light, not only because the law requires that you do so, but because it is also helpful for the buddy boats in watching out for each other.

Fuel & Water
(Diesel, gasoline/petrol, propane and water, with prices in US$ per US gallon, as of late 2000.) 
You won't find cheaper prices for diesel and gas than in Venezuela, so load up! Pizazz has a water maker, therefore we only can comment on availability, not price; and you can always catch some rain. For those with water makers, do not make water in Cartagena (it is filthy). In Colon, there is a lot of fresh water coming out of the canal, so lower your pressure.

Fee
Your provisioning will depend upon your cruising time between Trinidad and Panama. Trinidad is best for tins, dry goods, spicy foods, etcetera. Margarita, Venezuela is good place with good prices to re-stock, as the prices in the ABC islands are high (although the selection is better). The prices are reasonable in Cartagena but selection is limited. The San Blas has very limited supplies of everything. In Colon the prices and selections are excellent.

Liquor, Wine & Beer
We have a few specifics and some general comments. Load up in the duty-free port of Margarita, Venezuela. Prices are higher everywhere else, except Panama. Fill up the bilges! Margarita's price for beer is $7 per case; wines for $3; rum was $2; vodka for $9.

Marine Stores
As almost everyone knows, Trinidad is the place to have marine parts shipped in. The next places to ship parts to are Curaçao and Panama. In between, shipping in is more difficult or costly, but there are some places to buy parts locally.

Anchorages
All are pleasant; some are excellent, others are just a rest stop. Check your pilot charts for currents. You will experience about a 1-knot westerly current until you get to the Colombian coast. At times, you may see a 1/2 knot easterly current along the coast to Cartagena. Beyond Cartagena, there is a slight westerly current again, but sometimes an easterly current. There is some great fishing along the entire route, so put your lines out. NOTE: When at anchor, use your anchor light.

Aruba

Anchorages
There are several anchorages along the lee coast. The first is Rogers Beach, just south of refinery in Sint Nicolas Baai. Enter between the buoys at 12°25'34N & 069°53'96W (GREEN buoy on STARBOARD), head due east to the next green buoy at 12°25'38N & 069°53'51W, then head 115 magnetic to anchor wherever you wish in 10 to 12 feet the sand and grass. This is a little rolly in southeast winds, and eerie at night with the lights and flames of the refinery (but you are upwind of the smoke and smells).

As you sail up this coast, watch for stronger winds coming off-shore. Oranjestad Harbor is well lit if it gets dark before you get there (GREEN on STARBOARD). See notes in Part Two under Customs. After clearing in, go anchor. The airport anchorage is 12 to 16 feet deep either northwest of the runway or in the lagoon south of the runway. It's good holding and close to downtown, but noisy.

The alternative anchorage is about 3 miles north of Oranjestad near the high-rise hotels. Go to the red buoy, which has a white light at night, (since Hurricane Lenny there is an unlit white float) at 12°34'87N & 070°03'34W; leave the buoy to port and head approximately 090 course-over-ground towards the Mariott Hotel/Condos (the left two buildings along this stretch). Do not let the wind/current set you north. You anchor in 7 to 8 feet of sand and grass. This is away from downtown shopping but offers lots of beach sports and access to hotel services - casinos, expensive shops, and expensive restaurants. There is easy access to buses (US$2 round trip) to downtown for anything you need. After all this civilization, you are ready for some out-of-way coastal cruising.

Customs & Immigration 
This is where it gets a little frustrating. The hardest part is that Aruba Port Authority (on VHF 11) requires you to tie your vessel to the dock to clear in. They will not let you anchor and go by dinghy. They know how to deal with cruise ships with lots of passengers and crew, but not cruising yachts with two crew and no passengers. The cruise ship dock has big black tires that leave smudge marks on your topsides, so use lots of fenders and try to get to the north part of the dock which is sheltered behind the terminal building. They have no one to help take your lines so have someone ready to jump to the dock with a spring line and stern line.

Once you've made it to the dock, Customs and Immigration will come to you. No cost. Complete their forms or provide a crew list. They will not stamp your passports unless you ask them to. The drawback here is that they want you to return your vessel to the dock to clear out. Again, you cannot walk into their offices to clear out. NOTE: Since they did not stamp you in (nor did they take your zarpe for Cartagena), why check out? Just leave. If you plan to stop in Aruba for one or two nights, avoid the clear in/out; it shouldn't be a problem. But, don't let the checking in/out hassle keep you from visiting this fun island. [Editor's note: As cruisers, this sounds like commonsense advice to us, but as publishers we feel obliged to say that Compass Publishing takes no responsibility for the suggestion that cruisers circumvent the law!]

Security
As so few vessels stay very long (although we've stayed for one or two weeks), we are not aware of problems. But when in doubt, lock it.

Fuel & Water
We don't have prices but diesel, gas, and water are available at SeaPort Marina. Also, if you are anchored near the hotels, you can get water at the fishermen's dock. If you have access to a car, diesel and gas can be jugged from gas stations. We do not know about propane.

Provisions 
There are four markets just north of Orangestad, easily accessible by bus from the hotel anchorage. There is a good selection, but you pay US-plus prices (as Aruba is an "holiday island" catering to American tourists). 
Romar Trading (two blocks behind Kong Hing market) is a distributor. We got Chilean wines by the case for $3.50/bottle; these are mostly $4.50 in markets. Beer prices were the same as Bonaire and Curaçao.

Marinas / Haulout Facilities / Dinghy Docks 
SeaPort Marina has slips for rent. Leave your dinghy in the marina or use the fishermen's marina near the hotels.

Marine Stores 
Very limited selection. This is not really a cruiser hangout.

Money 
Although part of The Netherlands, Aruba is no longer associated with the Netherlands Antilles. They have their own Aruban paper and coin florins and won't accept NAfs from Bonaire or Curaçao. However, the exchange rate is the same: 1.75 per USid="mce_marker". As we mentioned before, Aruba is a tourist island, so ATMs are everywhere and all those tourists use credit cards (there's been no known fraud).

Phone / Fax / Internet / Mail 
Phones are very difficult unless you use a phone card. We had no success getting through to ATT and had to make a credit card call. Use the hotels or phone company for faxes. Internet cafés are located in a few shopping malls at USid="mce_marker"5/hour. We've had no experience with mail.

Laundry & Garbage 
We found machines on the 7th floor of the Holiday Inn (south tower) for id="mce_marker" wash and id="mce_marker" dry. These are for hotel guests so act like a hotel guest. Use the garbage bins to keep the waters clean.

Restaurants and Shoreside Activities 
A tourist island with many expensive shops and restaurants. All the hotels have casinos. Aruba has many condo/timeshare resorts for all those tourists. Take a few hours to listen through the "sales talk" and you'll get a rental car for two days or a USid="mce_marker"00 dinner certificate; just don't buy a timeshare. With the rental car you can see the island and do some provisioning. If you need a burger fix, choose from Wendy's, Burger King, and McDonalds. Enjoy shopping galore! There is a cinema here that is expensive.

Bonaire

Anchorages
You cannot anchor in Bonaire as the entire island is a marine park. Respect their guidelines and save the reefs. Moorings are available for rent; contact Harbor Village Marina on VHF 17.

Customs & Immigration 
The Customs building is on the waterfront; it is the blue-green building south of Karel's Bar and the Venezuelan fruit/veggie stand. The officials are very friendly and helpful. Ask for directions to Immigration (in September 2000 they were located above the cinema). No costs. For clearing out, go to Immigration first, then Customs. Your zarpe to wherever will cost you 25 florin (14 cents US).

Security
There is the typical petty theft, and sometimes theft of dinghies. (The bulk of the problem is break-ins into rental cars.)

Fuel & Water
Everything is available at Harbor Village Marina. Diesel id="mce_marker".45; gas $3.10; propane $9.00 for a 10-pound bottle; water at the dock.

Provisions 
There is the Cultimara market and its associated "warehouse" for selection and availability. The veggie/fruit ship arrives Thursday afternoon and most fresh stuff is gone by Monday. Also, there are a few other local markets around. And, the Venezuelan veggie stand always has the basics. Plenty of Dutch foods, particularly Dutch cheeses, and US goods. Amstel and Heineken beer is $20 per case; wines are $7 per bottle.

Marinas / Haulout Facilities / Dinghy Docks 
Harbor Village Marina is safe with 15-plus feet of water. But beware of the mosquitoes! Plaza Resort has some slips and dock space but mostly is only 9 feet deep. The dock at Karel's Beach Bar is the main dinghy dock for getting into town. Or you can use the dock at Harbor Village Marina and walk north from there.

Marine Stores 
There is a marine store at Harbor Village Marina (not cheap). There is a Napa auto parts store and, if you check around town, you can find a few miscellaneous items. There are a couple of hardware-type stores.

Money 
The currency here is NAf (Netherlands Antillean florin) which exchanges to 1.75 NAf per USid="mce_marker". Here you can use US dollars or your credit card (with no problems) and you get change in US$ and NAf coins. The official exchange rate varies, of course, but ATM withdrawals or VISA advances from the bank give you a better rate than stores or restaurants. It's a small island with several ATMs around.

Phone / Fax / Internet / Mail 
There are phones along the waterfront and at TELBO, the phone company, that require phone cards. There is one phone inside the phone company that is an ATT direct phone. The office at Harbor Village Marina will send or receive your faxes, as will the phone company. The internet cafe is upstairs next to the karate school near Cultimara market; the cost is US$9/hour, or you can purchase weekly or monthly time. The Marina Store has a computer for access but is more expensive. Flat mail can be sent through Harbor Village Marina; use FedEx. Incoming packages will go through Rocargo and you will pay some charges, and possibly 30 percent Customs duties unless you depart immediately.

Laundry & Garbage 
Harbor Village Marina office collects laundry daily before 9:30AM and it is returned the next day after 10AM; it is not cheap because the water is desalinated. You can take your laundry to the Laundromat near the stadium to do yourself, but it's not much cheaper. There are some garbage bins behind the fuel dock, or take your garbage to the dinghy dock and drop it in the bins behind the Harborside Mall.

Restaurants and Shoreside Activities 
The scuba diving, which is spectacular, is the primary reason to stop here. If you dive, you will love it. If you snorkel, you will love it. The Marine Park has well-marked mooring buoys all along the coast and around Klein Bonaire for diving/snorkeling. These are well maintained and offer a variety of sites, all within a dinghy ride. Since most tourists here are on "dive holidays", you will pay tourist prices at the many good restaurants. There are restaurants at most of the dive resorts as well as many in town, all within walking distance. If you need a movie fix, there is a cinema but it costs US$8/person per movie. A rental car ride around the island is fun, but the island is small and the drive only takes 2 or 3 hours.

Curaçao

Anchorages
Spanish Waters is a large, almost land-locked, lagoon. This area is approximately 35 miles from Bonaire, a nice downwind day sail. To enter Spanish Waters, stay close to the beach (which is still 90 feet deep) and you will easily see the shallow reef edge to the north; then zigzag through the channel. This channel is not lit or marked so you must arrive in good light and well before sundown. When you are ready to depart, take a sail along Curaçao's west coast; the water is deep close-in, the current is favorable, and there's great sightseeing - interesting cliffs, big fancy homes, and pretty beaches. We have gone to Santa Kruz Baai at 12°18'55N & 069°08'77W, which is about 25 miles northwest of Spanish Waters, an easy day sail. You anchor in 10 to 12 feet of sand and coral at the mouth of the bay (avoid coral patches); it's a great area for snorkeling along the cliffs and an easy place to depart from in the dark. Aruba is now only 45 miles away, with wind and current behind you. There are also several other areas on Curaçao's northwest coast that are pleasant stops - Santa Marta (unsurveyed on the chart, but 11 feet deep at entrance and mostly 10-plus on into bay), Knip Baai and Westpunt.

Customs & Immigration 
Although everything in Bonaire is within walking distance, this is not so in Curaçao. From Spanish Waters, the main anchorage for cruisers, it's a 20-minute bus ride to Wilhemsted. You catch the bus (ask at Sarifundy's for a schedule) outside the fishermen's marina or outside Kee's Place. Cost in September 2000 was 1.50naf (USid="mce_marker"). From the bus station in town, walk along the river edge to the north; the Customs building is on the corner past all the Venezuelan veggie boats. 
As in Bonaire, the officials are very friendly and helpful. Easy paperwork; no cost. Ask them for directions to Immigration as they move occasionally. Immigration will ask you for your intended length of stay (90 days maximum); at times, they may ask you to go to Post Office after the first 14 days to get an extension. For clearing out, go to Customs and then Immigration. No cost. We suggest clearing for Cartagena, whether you intend to go to Aruba or not.

Security 
Spanish Waters has been a hot spot for dinghy thefts for more than two years. Raise and lock it! There have also been muggings and pickpockets in town. Be very careful with your valuables.

Fuel & Water 
Spanish Waters is the primary anchorage. Sarifundy's can arrange for propane and there is a water hose at their dock. The Curaçao Yacht Club has a fuel dock: diesel id="mce_marker".06; gas $2.45.

Provisions 
Sarifundy's Marina provides a bus 6 days a week to various supermarkets. There is also a Cost-U-Less on the island if you have a rental car. The Venezuelan boats are northwest of the bus station, as is the local veggie market next to the bus station. Curaçao is the next best place after Margarita or Puerto La Cruz to re-stock with most of your favorite items.

Marinas / Haulout Facilities / Dinghy Docks 
Curaçao is a popular place to leave your boat to travel, as there are good airline connections to almost anywhere. Seru Boca Marina has slips for storage. For haul out, contact Antillean Slipway in Willemstad for work and their associated Curaçao Boat Yard for storage on the hard. Curaçao Yacht Club is mostly for local boats. Dinghies can be tied to a dock at Sarifundy's, Kees' Place or the fishermen's marina.

Marine Stores 
If you look, you can find a few stores for basics, although most cruisers get things shipped in. There is a Napa store on the island.

Money 
The same situation as on Bonaire. Use all of your NAfs here as there is nowhere else to the west to use them. The currency here is NAf (Netherlands Antillean florin) which exchanges to 1.75 NAf per USid="mce_marker". Here you can use US dollars or your credit card (with no problems) and you get change in US$ and NAf coins. The official exchange rate varies, of course, but ATM withdrawals or VISA advances from the bank give you a better rate than stores or restaurants. It's a small island with several ATMs around.

Phone / Fax / Internet / Mail 
There is a phone available at Sarifundy's, one at Kees' Place and one at Seru Boca Marina. You can dial ATT and pay a minimal charge to the bartender. Get your faxes sent to Sarifundy's. There is Internet access at the one computer at Sarifundy's or the two computers at Kees' Place for US$8/hour. There are several Internet cafes in Willemstad at USid="mce_marker"2/hour or only US$2/hour at the library. Cruisers either get their mail quickly or have long delays; there is no rhyme or reason why. Packages and flat mail are duty-free. We recommend FedEx.

Laundry & Garbage 
Laundry machines are available at Sarifundy's and Kees' Place for small cost. Garbage bins are behind both these places.

Restaurants and Shoreside Activities 
The sightseeing downtown is very nice, with lots of colorful buildings. There are some dive sites just outside Spanish Water, within dinghy distance. Farther up the west coast there are a few dive sites with moorings. Anchor up that way or rent a car and do shore dives. There is a nice Seaquarium on Curaçao, but cruisers see those fish all the time. There are cinemas in Willemstad but they are not cheap. Rent a car to see the island and do some provisioning. Sarifundy's and Kees' Place in Spanish Water have small restaurants. In town, there are many eating places ranging from fancy to McDonalds.

Summary

Now you have all the information you need for cruising the Colombian Coast. All you need to do is pull up that anchor. This is a great area to cruise, one that is still somewhat undeveloped and off the beaten path. We strongly recommend this coastal cruise before transiting the Panama Canal or heading to the northwest Caribbean.

We encourage everyone to pass on this "guide" to others behind you. If you are located in any of the popular cruiser spots, post this on a bulletin board. We welcome e-mail messages at sy_pizazz@yahoo.com with your questions, comments or requests for copies of this guide. NOTE: We do not have e-mail on our boat but use local cyber cafés when and if we get to them.

All the best for a safe passage from Lourae and Randy on Pizazz!

Copyright © 2001 Compass Publishing