Spanish Virgin Islands (II)

Cruising Log of Spanish Virgin Islands (II)

Contributed By: Bob Hall, Indiana

I've just returned from a week of sailing in the Spanish Virgins (aka-the Passage Islands), the USVI and the BVI. Since we spent four days in the Spanish V.I. I've decided to share my experiences. This is, by no means, an exhaustive report but I hope you will find it both interesting and informative.

Pre-Trip Planning

Since we were flying into St. Thomas arrangements were made to have the boat delivered to us at Red Hook (the East End of St. Thomas). This cost $90 + $40 for ferrying the delivery crew back to the BVI. We figured we saved a day that would have been spent checking out of the BVI, bringing the boat to the US and going through customs as well as the $20 per person it would have cost us to ferry to Tortola.

DAY #1: Sunday

Arrived in Red Hook about 3:00PM (delayed an hour in taxi due to presidential motorcade). Provisioned at nearby market, took delivery of WISDOM and motored over to Christmas Cove (Gr. St. James Is.) for night anchorage.

DAY #2: Monday

Departed Christmas Cove about 9:00AM. Once we cleared Buck Is. it was pretty much a run downwind all the way to the Culebrita Reef. At this point we furled the jib, unhooked the preventer on the main and motor-sailed through the markers into Ensenada Honda, anchoring in 9 feet of water near the town dock at Dewey. Although we had a few showers on the way over the weather cooperated while we were trying to fix our position (with GPS and dead reckoning) and locate the channel markers. We also had the benefit of another boat "sailing" at and through the markers ahead of us. In poor weather or at night it could be tricky and dangerous for those unfamiliar with the entrance. In reasonable conditions, however, and with the benefit of a good cruising guide and a sharp eye (even without a GPS) it should not be a problem for sailors with a moderate amount of experience.

Distance = 27 NM.  Time = 5 hrs. (light winds - 10-15 knots)

Dewey is an interesting little town and not nearly as "sleepy" as I expected based on what I had read about it. We had no problem locating ice, provisions, gift shops or restaurants: the Dinghy Dock, informal, great view and the best food in town (breakfast, lunch and dinner) at a very low price. Or, take the dinghy up the cut and there is another restaurant on the right, which is slightly more sophisticated. Definitely worth a visit early evening at least for a drink (the food is reasonable) and to watch the water traffic go by.

What was a problem was clearing Customs since we arrived on a holiday of some sort and the office was closed. The next day was also a holiday (Three Kings' Day) and they even had a parade!! Although we were able to check in by phone, we were told we needed to get a sticker from the Customs office on Wednesday (the next day that it would be open).

DAY #3: Tuesday

There was a tremendous storm that seemed to go on all night and the next day was overcast with periodic showers until about 3:00PM. We had planned to sail to Vieques but the weather caused us to change our plans. After a late breakfast at the Dinghy Dock (similar in many respects to its namesake at Oyster Pond on St. Martin) we motored to the north anchorage on Culebrita in search of a beautiful beach and world-class snorkeling. The beach was very nice but the water was too turbid for snorkeling. This may have been due to either the recent storms or the northerly swell or both.

The day was not lost, however, because of Bahia de Almodovar, which turned out to be an outstanding night anchorage. The lights of St.Thomas were visible in the distance over the reef that protected us from any hint of the swell. I don't think I've ever experienced an anchorage where the wind was so strong and the boat didn't pitch or roll an inch all night - not to be missed!!

DAY #4: Wednesday

Went back into Dewey, walked the 1/2 mile or so to the airport for Customs. This was the most pleasant Customs experience I've ever had. The officer filled out all the forms and all I had to do was sign my name once. I'm thinking of sending this in to Ripley's Believe-It-Or-Not!!!

It has been many years since I've sailed in US waters so I was not aware of the annual sticker that you can get for your boat that allows the Captain to clear into US waters with only a phone call. (This only applies to US registered boats) Cost = $25. Apparently, I could have obtained this sticker in St. Thomas or St. John and saved myself two hikes to the Culebra airport.

The skies were looking better by 10:00AM so we set out for Vieques which lies 10 miles to the south of Culebra. It was a great reach for the first half hour but the winds kicked up and blew in heavy rain that didn't let up until after we rounded the eastern tip of Vieques. Since the US Navy uses this end of the island for occasional target practice, you are supposed to try to find out if it is "hot" before you get too close. I called the observation tower (Vieques Target) on the radio numerous times on the way over but never got a response. Apparently the Navy will let you know if they don't want you there.

We anchored in Bahia Salinas del Sur on the south side of the island for about 3 hours (lunch and snorkeling). It would have been a beautiful spot had it not been for all of the junky military equipment that decorated the surrounding hillsides. It was kind of surreal - sitting on a boat in such a beautiful anchorage and then looking up to see tanks, jeeps and other mangled "targets" dotting the landscape. Also, while snorkeling we saw lots of shell cartridges, some live ammo belts, and a small parachute with a burned out flare - stuff you don't see underwater everyday.

We had a wonderful, dry, and speedy sail back to Culebra and anchored once more near the Dewey town docks since we planned to have dinner ashore. I can highly recommend Mamacitas- a small restaurant, bar and gift shop that you can dinghy to. It's right on the canal, just past the drawbridge and has a great atmosphere and good, reasonably priced food.

DAY #5: Thursday

This was our day to beat back to the USVI. We encountered 20-30 knot winds and 6-8'+ seas most of the trip as we sailed hard on the wind with a single reef in the main. About 40 minutes out of Culebra it became necessary to reef the genny also.  It was great sailing but not for the faint of heart nor, we all agreed, for any of our wives - they would definitely NOT have enjoyed themselves.

After 6.5 hours we were nearing Charlotte Amalie but elected to proceed to Caneel Bay for our night anchorage. Total distance = 50+ NM. Time = 8+ hrs.

DAYS #6-8: Friday-Sunday

I'd forgotten how rolly Caneel Bay could be in the winter (never mind what they looked like, Don's famous omelets were still delicious). Anyway, the remainder of our trip was spent in the BVI. The thing that stood out the most during the next 2 1/2 days was how calm the seas seemed in Drakes Passage (everything's relative).

I'm ready to go back to the Spanish Virgins but next time I'm going to take 10 -12 days to allow more time for exploration of these beautiful islands. I recommend Bruce Van Sant's Cruising, Snorkeling & Diving Guide to the Spanish Virgin Islands (1995) as a concise, accurate and handy guide to this area. If you wish to expand on this, try Don Street's cruising guide entitled Puerto Rico, the Passage Islands, the U.S. and British Virgin Islands. (1995).

Adios amigos... !