St. Lucia to Grenada

Cruising Log: St. Lucia to Grenada

Overview

The objective was to cruise the Grenadines as far south as Grenada sailing the Moorings yacht, Old Salty, lying Marigot Bay, St Lucia.

Routing

January 31

The crew arrived in Marigot Bay via mini van, over a one-hour drive from the airport. Moorings provided a welcome rum punch and showed us to our yacht Old Salty, a Moorings 445. Our provisions were onboard so we quickly stowed them and looked over the boat. There were several items that needed attention before we could depart the next day. They were quickly fixed.

February 1

This morning was spent on last minute pre departure chores. I met the Yacht Operation Manager, who facilitated completion of the maintenance items. Once we had topped off fuel, propane, water and ice, it was past noon. We finally left the dock at about 1230 hours. We sailed south following the western coastline towards the Pitons. These are two volcanic cones that form a large bay on the southwestern coast of St Lucia.

Moorings had advised us of the boat boy situation common to this area. Boat boys are people who make their living helping yachties with any number of things from grabbing a mooring ball to delivering supplies. We were warned that they could be pushy and at times, some hard-nosed yachties had had bad experiences with boat boys. Nevertheless, we were assured that with a modicum of civility and a no nonsense decisive attitude, any unpleasantness would be unlikely. Still, Moorings warned us to avoid Soufriere as boat boys there might prove particularly troublesome.

We decided to pick up a mooring at "Bang Between the Pitons", a small beach resort. It proved to be a good choice. A boat boy appeared and for EC $5.00 (about US $1.50) helped with our mooring. We soon found that unprotected anchorages on St Lucia's West Coast are all extremely rolly. Our mooring was in about fifteen feet of water about thirty feet short of the surf breaking on the beach: dramatic but noisy and rough. The site though was spectacular with the Pitons towering on either side of us.

February 2

We agreed on an early departure and cast off our mooring at 0500 hours. We did some night motoring for the first hour. With very light wind from the northeast, it seemed appropriate to hoist the downwind sail. It went up without difficulty and as the wind freshened, we benefited from its huge sail area as we sailed along at six to seven knots. Three or so hours later, the wind increased to the point where the downwind sail was too much for conditions so we struck it in favor of the genoa. Soon, we had to reef the main. Constant sail adjustments were the order of the day as winds varied continuously. Progress was excellent and by 1400 hours we had cleared the southern tip of St Vincent. We decided to continue to Bequia.

The cruising guide warns of extreme sailing conditions between St Vincent and Bequia: strong winds and choppy seas. About a third of the way across, depth reduces from over 600 fathoms to less than one hundred. Apparently, there is a significant up welling of nutrients; a pod of dolphins suggested good feeding grounds. Perhaps this is why the area is popular with whales at certain times of the year.

We entered Bequia's Admiralty Bay at about 1600 hours. Giving the shoals around Devil's Table a wide berth, we nosed well up into the crowded harbor. To avoid conflict with other vessels, we eventually anchored almost by ourselves just off Princess Margaret Beach.

February 3

Early morning, we cleared in with customs and looked around the town. Later, Cathy arranged an island tour and we visited a beach at Friendship Bay for a swim on the other side of the island.

February 4

At 1030 hours, we left Admiralty Bay for the island of Mustique, famous as a watering and vacation spot for international jetsetters. It was a short ten-mile sail and soon we anchored in Britannia Bay, rolly with a moderate swell from the north. Mike and I walked to the airport to clear out of St Vincent and the Grenadines for a departure to Grenada and the Grenadines next morning.

Mustique is a manicured park with many exotic houses tucked away between flowering shrubs and palms. The natives all work to support the island and its residents. They live in a domestic area at the town site on Britannia Bay. While we were away, graduates from the Hamburg Sailing School arrived en mass in five Stardust charter yachts. Clearly, the Hamburg Sailing School is deficient in anchoring instruction as one yacht positioned with its transom about five feet off our bow. We moved!!

Later, most of us visited famed Basil's Bar for sundowners. Things were quiet so we dined on board and prepared for a departure at 0600 hours next morning for Carriacou.

February 5

Towering cumulus clouds and squally looking conditions greeted us in the morning. We had just got underway when a heavy rain shower reduced visibility to almost zero for a time. However, we no sooner donned rain gear than the weather cleared and we enjoyed sunny conditions and fresh wind for much of the day. We arrived at Hillsborough Bay, Carriacou just after 1200 hours and lunched at anchor. Mike and I later visited customs to clear into Grenada. Hillsborough is a small town with good shopping for basic supplies. We bought ice as our freezer had died and wine to cater to the strong demand. Later we motored to Tyrell Bay for the night. Tyrell Bay is a popular spot for world cruisers. There were many boats at anchor with blue water gear in evidence. The town is small with a couple of bars/restaurants and a general store. It is a very sheltered anchorage.

February 9

We went ashore early and cleared out of Grenada for St Vincent and the Grenadines. By 1000 hours we were away for Union Island to clear back in to St Vincent. Union Island anchorage is right up against a reef and the varying blues and greens of the water were gorgeous. A boat boy kept getting in my way with his boat and I had to avoid him at least twice. We did not accept unnecessary assistance, which seemed to upset him. He told us that only Americans rebuffed his offers and departed in a huff. Once anchored, Mike and I dinghied ashore and walked the short distance to the airport to do customs. With extra ice purchased from a more agreeable boat boy, we departed north for the Tobago Cays, site of many reefs and a Mecca for divers and snorklers.

En route though, I did some mental time and distance calculations and realized that were we to press on to the Tobago Cays, we would be setting ourselves up for an extremely long day. Thus we took the afternoon off anchored in Saline Bay on the island of Mayreau. In the evening, most of us went ashore to hike up the hill to Dennis's Hideaway. Dennis is another ex charter yacht skipper. Donkeys serenaded us at sunset as we sat at his open air bar overlooking the bay.

February 10

With an early start, we headed to the Tobago Cays, just a couple of miles east of Mayreau Island. With GPS and visual cues, we had no trouble finding our way to a very scenic anchorage just north of Petit Rameau. All the other yachts that had overnighted here were anchored to the east of Petit Bateau. Thus we were by ourselves. A boat boy appeared almost immediately and we bought a loaf of freshly baked bread from him. With breakfast over, we snorkeled for a couple of hours before departing for Bequia. Coral and undersea life near Petit Rameau were worth a look but obviously the better area would be where the other boats were anchored. Nevertheless, we enjoyed our solitude. At 1030 hours we departed for Bequia about 24 nautical miles north. Enroute, again we had ideal winds of about 20 knots from the northeast. Close hauled, we were easily able to lay a course to Westcay on Bequia's southwest point.

We made excellent time to Westcay and everyone got in some useful practice as we tacked into Admiralty Bay.

We had decided to let the first boat boy coming our way locate a mooring right in front of the Frangipani Hotel. He did so and we tied up before 1600 hours. The cost was US $15.00/night, the same as in the British Virgin Islands. Before 1700 hours, Mike and I went to customs to clear out of St Vincent and the Grenadines. We decided to do this in Bequia as we had been discouraged from clearing out at Wallilabou or Kingstown on St Vincent. Reportedly, boat boys before Christmas could be more aggressive.

One slight anomaly was that theoretically, we had to vacate the country within twenty-four hours after clearing with customs. We correctly surmised that thirty-six hours would not be a problem so long as one was discreet. That evening we gathered for drinks at the Frangi and then taxied to the Old Fort Restaurant for dinner. We still had to do some resupplying next day so we fixed on 1030 hours for departure.

February 11

We got away by 1030 hours and despite dire warnings of large seas and strong winds, we enjoyed a wonderful sail across to St Vincent in ideal conditions. I had selected Petit Byahaut to the north of Kingstown as an overnight stop. The cruising guide indicated that it was a small bay accessible only by sea and very secluded.

Early afternoon, we arrived and picked up a mooring, free if you dine ashore. The bay is formed by hills that look volcanic in origin. They are densely forested and a small hotel is barely visible from the water. The beach is black sand.

Snorkeling and beaching took care of the afternoon. Earlier, Cathy, and I had toured the hotel and grounds. Accommodation is in separate canvas roofed cottages dotted about the large property. The hotel relies on solarpower for electricity.

Soon crews from two other yachts appeared so there was quite a crowd to keep the lone resident company. Dinner was excellent. Afterwards, I shuttled everyone back to the boat without incident although the first time we did have a bit of trouble getting the dinghy passed some rocks. The second shuttle was better. Next day would be long as it was the big push to St Lucia: 40 miles+.

February 12

We left our mooring at 0500 hours and motored clear of the coast. We raised the mainsail but as winds remained light, we motor-sailed until clear of the island. From there we had good winds until we approached St Lucia when they dropped almost completely so it was back to motor sailing. Careful reading of the Cruising Guide revealed that Marigot Bay was the only convenient customs spot for our return to St Lucia. Soufriere with its boat boys could only provide overnight clearance for a coastal stop. We decided to press on to Marigot Bay. It was a good decision as all coastal anchorages we passed were exposed to the sea and very rolly. We motored into Marigot Bay at about 1600 hours and anchored well up the bay where it was both sheltered and flat calm.

February 13

I cleared in with customs but had to pay overtime fees as it turned out to be St Lucia's National Day. We were all fatigued from the long transit up from Petit Byahaut. Happily, the facilities of The Moorings resort offered a perfect opportunity for a restful day around the pool. That evening, we broke out the champagne to celebrate the successful completion of our cruise of The Grenadines.

February 14

I suppose I should observe on one final item. As with most cruises, a frequent annoyance arises from other boaters. I refer to the inability of some to master safe anchoring. Besides the inept graduates of the Hamburg sailing school, we experienced three more incidents involving the spatially challenged. Twice a British crew anchored next to us so as to present a hazard.

Finally, on our last night in Marigot Bay, a Finnish crew anchored so closely to us that a collision was inevitable. They did not seem to realize this! I hauled in ten feet of rode and during the night, their bow missed our transom by three to five feet. Their yacht only collided with our dinghy. Asleep, they were blissfully unaware of any of this.

It seems that the challenge overwhelming many is visualizing where the yacht will stabilize at anchor and what the swinging circle will be. While it is essential to look behind the yacht to ensure adequate clearance from those at anchor before the hook is dropped, few skippers seem to do this. I am certain that many simply drop the hook and hope for the best. Others give the impression that they do not care where their boat ends up. The German and Finnish crews seemed to have this attitude. Still others let out a minimum of anchor rode and fail to check whether they are hooked. Often, only the weight of the chain holds the boat. Alternatively, too often, one sees a yacht motoring backward at speed waiting for the anchor to hook. Given the need for a decent night's sleep, the only thing one can do when threatened by an ineptly anchored vessel is to adjust one's rode or move. This cruise, we were forced to do both.

In the morning, we docked Old Salty. The yacht had performed very well, even the fridge problem had not hampered our enjoyment of the trip. Nevertheless, as I told the Marigot Bay staff, Old Salty was not in the condition Moorings' charterers have come to expect. Once docked, we packed our gear and the taxi for the airport picked us up at 1145 hours. We were away.