San Blas Islands: Log
Chartering in San Blas, Panama
San Blas Islands Overview | Typical Itinerary Chart
Day 1
We land at "Corazon de Jesus" airport after a 30min. flight from Panama City, Panama. The small plane flies over the entire San Blas archipelago's incredible scenery and reefs. Unforgettable! Our Skipper JC and his crew, Marcos, meet us.
"Tai Phou", a 41-foot monohull sailboat, is moored just one hundred feet from the airstrip and JC and Marcos have two dinghies ready to ferry our luggage and us to Tai Phou. We climb aboard, pick our rooms, and sit down to a breakfast of melon, toast, jam, orange juice, coffee and tea.
After satisfying our tummies, we explore our new home. Tai Phou has 3 rooms (one connected to the bathroom and two with private sinks), a table and couch, kitchen and navigation desk below deck. Above deck are a seating area, table, canopy (for shade) and outdoor shower (an indoor shower is also available for those who wished to use it- however, the outdoor shower is more fun).
Later that morning, JC has arranged with "Kuna Dugout Canoe" for us to take a trip up the Rio Diablo in a "kayuko" - a large wooden canoe used by Indians. The river provides all the fresh water for Corazon de Jesus, and JC needs to fill Tai Phou's tanks up with water for the cruise. The trip upstream is filled with birds, fish and the sounds of the jungle over the steady roar of the outboard motor. Our Kuna guide takes us to a point in the river where a Kuna Cemetery is nearby and we walk over for a visit. The cemetery is very peaceful, filled with the scent of jungle flowers and well kept up. Each grave is decorated with the inhabitant's cup and plates, to signify that his or her place would not be taken. There were several children's graves, which often were decorated with baby baths or toys. Our guide informs us however that the number of infant deaths is decreasing. For the trip down the river we use the Kayaks, which have been towed behind the dugout canoe. The sea kayaks each hold two and are extremely stable. We are going down with the current, so often we just drift and watch the jungle pass by, right in the middle of an assortment of monkeys, iguanas, and lots of exotic birds.
After lunch, it is now time to cast off. Onto Isla Verde (Green Island), 4NM from the base, in an incredible anchorage with turquoise waters you would not believe! Isla Verde is a beautiful small deserted island with one of the nicest reefs I have seen in Panama. While we did not see many fish, the diversity and the colors of the corals are the best I have ever seen. The slopes up to the island are covered with star fish and one sea cucumber. We spent a very relaxing afternoon snorkeling, (scuba diving is not allowed in the San Blas), kayaking and playing in the clear, blue water of the Caribbean. As the sun goes down, Marcos is ready with a fabulous rum cocktail, and a spicy sardines on crackers appetizer. The wine and conversation flow during dinner (lobster and pasta) and everyone goes to bed feeling pretty good.
 I WANT TO GO THERE NOW! |
Days 2 and 3
Three to four hours sailing to Eastern "Cayos Hollandes" (see chart). En route, JC casts a line to the sea and soon feels a major tug. He battles fifteen minutes, and then to our enduring amazement, reels in a five-foot lemon shark. While we alternately gasp and click photos, Marcos approaches with pliers and calmly wrenches the now-mangled fishhook from the shark's gums and needle-sharp teeth, releasing it back into the ocean.
Cayos Hollandes is one of the most beautiful and interesting anchorages of the islands. A stunning variety of reefs including a large coral reef: snorkelers drift in a strong current, holding the dinghy, among Manta Rays, and Barracudas! The crew will buy some provisions from Indians. "Mr. Robinson", and old Indian man, will tell you the old Kuna legends.
Days 4 and 5
A two-hour sail and anchoring west of the large reef.. We visit the island inhabited by about 10 families of Indian fishermen. We take the opportunity to have custom Kuna bracelets made for us. And again, snorkeling and spear fishing, and a kayak ride around the reefs. We also take the opportunity to discover more of the Indian population.
Day 6
We sail to Naguargandup, and cross the Hollandes Channel, an excellent fishing spot (yellow tunas and Sierras). There is a little opening through the coral reef. This is another magnificent anchorage.
Day 7
Sail to Rio Sidra, where we will visit a "village-island" inhabited by about 500 Indians who are still living the old traditional life. A unique characteristic in the Caribbean: the bamboo huts are very close to each other. The island is filled with smiling kids eager to make contact. This is the pure, authentic Indian life. Meanwhile, it is one fabulous meal after another!
Day 8
After breakfast we put up the sails and sail to Kuanidup, 6 NM, on a beam reach. Kuanidup is a little island where Indians have built "cabañas", which are some sort of little hotel made out of palm huts. During the day, we will enjoy their beach and hammocks. We spend a very relaxed afternoon taking the kayak out to visit the hotel and deserted island and snorkeling among the coral reefs. The highlight is swimming in the midst of a thick cloud of hundreds of thousands of neon fish, a truly humbling experience. The reefs are very nice and the water surrounding the reefs is always shallow enough to stand up in. The hotel is disappointing and pricey (id="mce_marker"30 per night including three meals a day), wooden huts, no snorkel or beach gear, and no dinghy to take you to the deserted island. We have a light lunch of sandwiches and salad and then take a trip to the Kuna village Rio Sidra by Kuna dugout canoe. Going in the boat is a gentle pleasant ride; however, coming back, be sure to wear the rain coats provided, it's a wet ride back. The village is very nice, a great place to buy Molas, bracelets, and fresh Kuna Coco Bread. For dinner we dine on the fish Marcos caught, cooked in a butter garlic sauce. However, we could have had dinner at the village and sample a local meal.
Day 9
Sail to Chichime, kingdom of lobsters and giant crabs fishermen. Behind the reef, the anchorage is absolute heaven. Marcos takes us to a very nice reef to go snorkeling and catches two Spanish mackerel with a spear gun. We sail to Cayo Chichime before lunch and it is the best sail of the trip. Jim and I got to take turns at the helm. One of the speared Spanish Mackerels is served with lunch along with salad, blue cheese, and fresh bread. Three or four Kuna families live on Cayo Chichime and they come to the boat to sell molas and an octopus for dinner. JC is good friends with one of the Kuna families and we are invited to walk around the island and look at their homes. The Tai Phou is anchored in a strong current, and it is fun to dive off the bow and catch the boat as the current pulls you by. This is also great for swimming to the island as you can float to shore, walk upstream of the Tai Phou and float back to the boat.
Day 10
We stay at Cayo Chichime. We visit a Kuna family and watch them prepare "arroz de coco" (coco rice) and then bring some back to the boat to have with the fish that JC had bought from the Kuna for lunch. We stay at this anchorage until 4:00 pm, swimming, reading, and relaxing, and then prepare for our last sail of the trip to Porvenir. The sail to Porvenir is not very pleasant as it is very choppy. JC powers up the engine to make the trip faster. We arrive at Porvenir around 5ish and take a stroll around the Island. One of the least pretty, Porvenir is used as a take out and put in point for vacations. Porvenir has a hotel, Hotel Porvenir, however at $30 per person, no meals included, it is not worth it. We have cocktails at the Hotel and then take the dingy back to Tai Phou for our last dinner aboard, Spanish mackerel and a good pasta of tomatoes, olives, green peppers, and onions.
Tomorrow morning, the little plane will land on the tiny island and we'll be leaving for Panama City.