Windward Islands
Cruising Log of the Windward Islands
We bought our Beneteau Oceanis 41, "Blueknot" in September 1997. She is based at Marigot Bay in St. Lucia We have sailed the Windward Islands about 8 times on our boat and are becoming quite familiar with the sailing area. Our reference book is the "Sailors Guide To The Windward Islands" by Chris Doyle. We use it for detailed navigation, anchoring, dining, sightseeing, etc.
This is an attempt to share our observations and experiences with those who are not familiar with the windward islands. To this end, we shall try to describe a hypothetical charter from St. Lucia to Granada, and then from St. Lucia to Martinique.
The Windward Islands - General
The windward islands are made up of 4 countries — Martinique, St. Lucia, St.Vincent and Grenada. Each country has its own customs and immigration. The sailing world is a large part of each country's economy and the natives are very much aware and supportive of this. The sailing is "active" with the trade winds at 15 to 22 knots and at times higher. All sailing is done on the Western (Caribbean) side of the islands. The windward islands are unspoiled, reasonably undeveloped, uncongested and extremely beautiful.
Transportation
From the USA you fly to San Juan, then take American Airlines or American Eagle to St. Lucia or Grenada. In St. Lucia there are 2 airports:
- Hewanorra: American Airlines services this airport. After clearing customs, it is about an hour drive across the island (through the rain forest) to Marigot Bay Moorings®' base.
- Vigie: American Eagle services this airport. After clearing customs, it is a 20-minute drive to the base. The Moorings® provide mini van transportation from the airport to the base and back.
Marigot Bay Base
A beautiful base has currently about 35 Moorings® yachts ranging in size from the M405 to the M4500. The base has a resort with West Indian style cottages, Hurricane Hole Restaurant (nice) custom office and the Mariner Market (located less than 100 feet from the boat slips). Currency exchange (from $US to $EC and back) is available at the base resort lobby (easy and a good exchange rate). The Mariner Market has a reasonable selection at reasonable prices — meats, bread, beer, wine, etc. We purchase our major food and beverage requirements here. The base people are very friendly and helpful; however, it is a good idea to check all the yacht functions (mechanical, electrical, water tanks full, etc.) before leaving the slip. If anything need to be corrected, the Moorings® staff is quick and capable of making the repair.
Marigot Bay to the Pitons
After clearing customs, we depart from Marigot Bay and head for Soufriere and the Pitons. It is about a 2-hour sail (8nm) and it is a good time to get comfortable with the yacht. As a note, we always double reef the main sail when we start out from any anchorage — you never know how much wind you are going to get when you are 3-4nm off-shore.
At the Pitons we head for an area just north of the Petit Piton and tie up to a mooring (there are very few in the windward islands) that has been placed in the anchorage by the Soufriere Marine Management Association (SMMA). SMMA is a quasi government organization that controls/protects the marine environment including anchorages. A SMMA warden comes around to the yacht around 4-5pm and collects $10(US) fee. After the yacht is tied to the mooring, a line is then taken to shore and tied to a palm tree. The local boat boys are helpful in securing a mooring and taking the stern line to shore and tying it to a tree. Our approach with boat boys is: Only deal with one boat boy. At the initial contact be very specific as to what you want them to do and how much you are going to pay them. Boat boys can be a pain, but we have found that the above approach works. Soufriere is a typical west Indian town. The Hummingbird restaurant is very good. near the area is an excellent diving area (Anse Castanet).
The Pitons to Bequia
This leg is a full day sailing--approx. 53 nm (8-10 hours) so it is best to be under way at first light. You head for the main island of St. Vincent, which is 30nm of sailing. Along the way you will see flying fish and sometimes a school of dolphins. keep from 3-5 nm off St. Vincent until you see the southern tip of the island, then head in closer to the island and then steer for Bequia and Admiralty Bay. In Admiralty Bay the anchoring becomes quite congested near the center of town (Port Elizabeth), so it is much easier to anchor in the southern part of the bay near Tony Gibbon's beach. Bequia is the sailing mecca of the windward islands. Port Elizabeth (Admiralty Bay) is a vibrant town with shops, dining and all kinds of yachting services. You can also clear customs here.
From Bequia, one can sail south to several destinations: Mustique, Canouan, Union Island, Mayreau, and the Tobago Cays.
Bequia to Canouan
It is approx. a 20nm (3.5-4 hour) sail from Bequia to Charlestown Bay in Canouan, mostly ocean sailing. Charlestown Bay has a nice restaurant at the Tamarind bay resort.
Canouan to the Tobago Cays
It is approx. 4nm (1 hour) sail/ motor to the Tobago Cays. The sailors guide is a good navigation aid for this area. A good place to anchor is off the south east side of Petit Bateau. The Tobago Cays are a national park. it is great for swimming, snorkeling, and hiking. Boat boys are friendly and some provide per your order cooked lobsters at the time you requested. The Cays are a must-see when cruising in this area.
Tobago Cays to Union Island
From the Tobago Cays you sail past to the north side of Mayreau and then turn south for Clifton on Union Island (approx. 8nm). Clifton is the southern port of entry for St. Vincent, so if you are heading for Grenada, you clear throuh customs at this location. Clifton has a good mini market and several souvenir stores.
Near Union Island are two small islands that are neat day cruises: Palm Island and Petit St. Vincent.
Union Island to Carriacou
From Clifton you sail south approx. 8nm (2 hours) to Carriacou and anchor at Hillsborough which is a port of entry for Granada. Here you will have an "adventure" when you clear customs. Near Hillsborough is a small beautiful island — Sandy Island — great for swimming, snorkeling, etc.
Carriacou to Mt. Hartman Bay, Granada
From Carriacou, sail south past to Isle de Ronde and the west side of the main island of Granada to the Moorings® base located in Mt. Hartman bay (Secret Harbour). The sail is approx. 36nm (6-8 hours) with part ocean sailing. With Secret Harbour as a base of operations, there are many short trips by land or sea — Hog Island, St. George, guided tours by mini-van of the island to name just a few.
The return trip from Secret Harbour to St. Lucia follows basically the same Reverse course with alternate stops at Petit St. Vincent and Mayreau (Salt Wistle Bay).
there are two approaches to the long sail from Bequia to St. Lucia:
- Bequia to Wallilabou (half way up the main island of St. Vincent). This is a small bay but well protected. It is deep so it requires a stern line tied to a tree. Boat Boys can be a pain there. Then Wallilabou to St. Lucia the next morning.
- A night sail from Bequia to St. Lucia (10-12 hours). We have done this sail several times — it's great.
St. Lucia to Martinique (Ste. Anne and Cul de Sac Marin)
Besides the Pitons and Marigot Bay there is our favorite — Rodney Bay (on the north end of St. Lucia). The Charthouse is an excellent dining choice and it is accessible by dinghy.
From Rodney bay head north to St Anne, 22nm(4-5 hours) and anchor at St. Anne or at the Moorings® Base at Marin. The customs office is at the end of the dock. Martinique customs require the original ship registration document, but do not charge a fee.
From this point, Fort de France, St. Pierre and other destinations on Martinique are waiting. We have not done much cruising around Martinique, but have anchored at grand Anse D'Arlet, which is 6nm south of Fort de France.