From the BVI to Nevis

Itinerary

BVI - St. Martin - St. Barts - St. Kitts - Nevis - St. Eustatia - St. Barts - St. Martin - BVI.
Total Distance: 360 Nautical Miles

June 16, 1998

Arrived at Beef Island, Tortola airport at about 6 PM. Since the taxi driver had our names on their list we took the taxi a distance of about two city blocks to the dinghy dock in Trellis Bay where Shooting Star was waiting for us. Since we had decided to keep the crew on board for this cruise, cocktails were waiting when we boarded along with a great Mahi Mahi dinner.

June 17, 1998: Tortola to St. Martin

We sailed to Spanishtown, Virgin Gorda to clear customs out of the BVI. We then sailed to North Sound and the Bitter End Yacht Club where we picked up a mooring ball and got the boat ready for to cross the Anegada Passage. We got the latest weather information from the Moorings® office at Bitter End, rechecked to see that all lights were in good order, brought the dinghy motor and gas tank aboard and then raised the dinghy onto the bow. We divided the crew into two watches and decided on a three hour on - three hour off schedule.

We left the Gorda Sound at 5:30 PM. When we got out into open water the waves were 2 to 4 ft. but there was so little wind that we decided to motor sail. The crossing was uneventful. We saw a Cruise Liner and one other boat off in the distance. The organisms in bow wave gave us a nice little light show and every now and then you could see the outline of a fish highlighted.

June 18, 1998: St. Martin

St. Martin came into view at about 2:30 AM. When the watch was scheduled to change at 3:00 AM everyone was up and the retiring shift decided to stay up as we approached the islands to watch the sun come up. We arrived at Marigot Bay, St. Martin at 6:00 AM. After putting the dinghy back into the water we all went back to bed for a couple of hours.

At about 10:00 AM we went ashore to clear customs and then walked around Marigot. We were told that it is simpler and costs less to clear on the French side. We walked up to the fort overlooking the Bay for a great view of the area and then decided to rent a van. Bob & Nancy go to St. Martin every year so they gave us a tour of the island. They showed us Mullet Bay, Cupecoy Beach on the Dutch side of St. Maarten and Orient Beach on the French side of St. Martin. We then went to the Marina at the northeastern corner of Simpson Bay Lagoon where we had a great supper at the Tropicana Restaurant (French side). The restaurants and shops that line tree sides of the Marina provide a very continental setting.

June 19, 1998

We had the van until 4:00 PM so we took the ladies to Philipsburg (Dutch side) on a shopping trip and then picked up a couple of bottles of wine, baguettes and three or four cheeses and went to Orient Bay for a picnic and swim. Beach chairs and umbrella's rented for $15.00 per couple.

While there we had to do the tourist thing and walk to the other end of the beach just to say that we did it. After the trip down the beach I decided that French bathing suits, especially the smaller ones, really do make the package more attractive.

June 20, 1998: St. Martin to St. Barth

Departed for St. Barth at 9:30 AM. We sailed as far as Ile Tintamarre, which is east of St. Martin, for lunch. Anchored at Baie Blanche. The Sir Francis Drake was also anchored there for lunch. We renamed the Baie - "Silicone Beach" because of three young ladies off the Sir Francis Drake who were playing volleyball nude on the shore. It looked as if they had cornered the market on silicone. They only thing that bounced on that beach was the volleyball.

We left at 1:00 PM and sailed in E-SE winds of about 10 to 15 K. Arrived at Anse de Colombier on St. Barts (French) at 4:15 PM.

June 21, 1998: St. Barth to St. Kitts

Up early for a hike up the shore for a beautiful view of the Anse. We found a path up the hill which proved interesting. Lots of wild flowers, butterflies and a beautiful Peacock. We thought that we had heard cats crying the night before and realized that what we heard were the Peacocks talking to each other.

We left at about 10:00 AM and, due to light winds, motor sailed to St. Kitts (formerly British). There is a new marina at Basseterre, however it is not too protected from the swells. We called ahead for a slip and were told to take any slip go bow in. When we got there it was rolling pretty good inside the marina and the docks extended about 10 feet out making it very hard to get off the boat. It would have been much better to back into the slip. We found out later that it was a taxi driver on shore that intercepted our radio call and gave us instructions on where and how to dock. Walked over to the Cruise ship dock to clear Customs & Immigration. They were closed so we took a taxi to the commercial docks where we cleared Customs. The Immigration officer was not there so we were told to go back over to the Cruise Ship Dock in the morning and if we could not find them there to go to a Police Station in town and they would stamp our passports.

They also told us that the "Port Captain" would be at the marina at 8:30 the next morning to collect slip fees, etc. When you stay at the marina the water is free. They have an elaborate pipe system down from the rain forest and an abundance of fresh water. When you clear customs you get a slip that lists the bays that you have permission to anchor in. You also get another slip, which you must present at customs in Nevis, which is basically permission to visit that island.

We walked through Basseterre. The people were friendly and it appeared to be a very safe place. Police everywhere and crime is fairly low. A very nice town with a lot of history in it's buildings.

June 22, 1998: St. Kitts

The Police Officer on duty in the marina suggested a taxi driver for an island tour. The taxi's all have names and this one was "Smile on me" and George Baker was the taxi driver. He took us through the downtown, to a plantation where they make Batik designs and clothing, a hike up the side of the mountain into the rain forest, to the Brimstone Hill Fortress and then to lunch at another plantation. The grounds and trees around the Batik place were fantastic and the Brimstone Hill Fortress was one of the best that I have seen in the islands. It is on a hill on the northwestern corner of the island and has three separate levels, each one with a wall around it. Cost was $15.00 per person. After another walking trip through the town we motored a little way south to Ballast Bay to anchor for the night.

June 23, 1998: St. Kitts to Nevis

Left at 10:00 AM for a 30 minute motor to Charlestown on Nevis (formerly British). We went ashore to present our permission slip to customs and walked through the town. After lunch we moved about one mile north to anchor off the Four Seasons Resort Beach. More swimming and snorkeling and a walk on the beach.

June 24, 1998: Nevis to St. Eustatia (Statia)

Left Nevis at 8:45 AM and sailed approximately 30 miles northwest past St. Kitts to St. Eustatia (Dutch). Arrived at 1:00 PM. St. Eustatia does not have any beaches. There is a cliff about 100 feet high on the west side where the town of Oranjestad is located. Customs was closed for the weekend. We decided to take a walk on shore and climb the hill to the fort. A van was sitting at the side of the road and offered to take us for an island tour for $7.50 each and he told us that if we did not like his tour, we did not have to pay him. His name was Josser Daniels and he is the island historian. He took us up to Fort Oranje and gave us a lesson in American history.

Apparently, St. Eustatia was the first foreign nation to recognize the American Flag with a gun salute from this fortress. He told us about a visit in 1937 by Roosevelt and then another in 1939 by Admiral Nimitz to place a bronze plaque in the fortress to recognize that they were the first to salute the new flag. He had a picture album of the proceedings and he was in the pictures (16 years old at the time). He looked to be about 50 years old but we did some quick math (16 years old in 1939) and found that he was 75. Statia, as it is called, is a poor island almost forgotten.

The buildings are all old and decaying. Josser gave us a historical tour that was better than the St. Kitts tour with all of its scenery, rain forests, and forts. Had a Fish & Chips dinner at the Blue Bead Restaurant below the town near the docks and then back to the boat for the night.

June 25, 1998: St. Eustatia to St. Barth

We left St. Eustatia at 9:30 AM (never did clear customs) for St. Barts. Passed the refinery and petroleum storage tanks on Statia, which take up almost half of the island.

Arrived at Gustavia on St. Barts at 1:00 PM. Went right into the harbor where there were boats med-moored stern to the shore and others on mooring balls in the harbor. We picked up two of the mooring balls, one each forward and aft. There are no ropes on the mooring balls. Best way to handle this due to the crowded condition of the harbor is to tie two long ropes together with a fender at the joint, then use your dinghy to tie one end to the front ball and the other end to the rear ball. Then bring the boat in, fenders out on both sides, pick up the fender and tie off at the bow and then at the stern. Due to the proximity of the boats on either side, we put the stern rope onto the winch on the downwind side of the boat and used the winch to pull the rope tight so that we would not swing over into another boat. There is an area just outside the harbor where you can catch a mooring ball but you must also put out a stern anchor due to the crowding. Cost is $10.00 per night in the inner harbor and $5.00 per night outside the harbor. The only way to go is into the inner harbor, which is surrounded by white buildings with red roofs on different levels up the side of the hill. Absolutely beautiful! After an afternoon visiting the shops we had Lobster Salad at the La Marina Restaurant.

June 26, 1998: Back to St. Martin

Left Gustavia at about 1:00 PM and sailed north with the wind from our backs, around the east side of St. Maarten back to Marigot Bay. Arrived at 5:00 PM. Bought water from the "water boat" at $ .12 per gallon. Steak and Ribs on the Bar-B-Que.

June 27, 1998

We planned a day of shopping in St. Martin. When we went ashore we found that the stores were all closed for a holiday. The tents at the dock were all up with vendors doing business as usual, but the stores were closed. We took the "Dollar Bus" (actually $1.50 now) to Philipsburg where all of the stores were open. Got back to the boat at 3:00 PM and went in for a swim. Rum chicken and couscous for supper. Brought the dinghy back on board for the crossing.

June 28, 1998: St. Martin to Tortola

Up at 5:00 AM for a daylight crossing of the Anegada Passage. Saw lots of flying fish during the first half and several dolphins out near the center. No winds again and had to motor sail most of the way. Some rolling due to waves and swells, but a fairly calm passage. Arrived Virgin Gorda Sound at 4:00 PM. We decided to stay in Eustatia Sound that evening so we went in down the east side of Prickly Pear. This area is red lined on Moorings® maps for bareboats and there are very few boats there. Obviously a favorite area for the Crewed Yachts. You need someone on the bow to get around the reefs, but they are marked very well on the charts.

We stopped to snorkel at two reefs in the center, put the dinghy back into the water and then went into Deep Bay to anchor just east of Biras Creek Resort.

June 29, 1998

Left Deep Bay at about 9:30 AM and motored around to the Bitter End, passed between Saba's Rock and the Yacht Club. They have completely demolished the Pirate's Pub and are building a modern 12-room hotel resort with restaurant. Picked up a mooring ball in Leverick Bay and went ashore for a while, then sailed down to the ferry dock outside of Spanishtown where we anchored and went in to clear customs back into the B.V.I. Sailed back over to Marina Cay where we all went ashore again for a walk up the hill. Had our final supper at Pusser's at Marina Cay.

June 30, 1998

Motored over to Trellis Bay where we unloaded the luggage just as a taxi pulled up for another couple. He took us over to the airport for our 9:30 AM flight home.

We all enjoyed ourselves and had a great trip. The cooking was superb, but we all agreed that there were two many big meals and there was too much food even though we had requested lighter meals. The cook is used to preparing food for every meal and lots of it to suit the various tastes of a new group every week and sometimes to three different couples, each with different tastes. With the Captain on board, we did not do as much of the work as we would have liked.

At times it was just easier to let the crew handle everything as they are used to doing. As a result, I gained 5 pounds and I usually go home about the same or a pound lighter. Would I do it again?... in a heartbeat! But next time it will probably be without the Crew so that we can take over the boat and do things at our own speed. Even though I am the boat owner, the crew lives aboard and the boat is their home. They look after it as if they owned it themselves and for this I am thankful, but it is hard to go on a vacation in someone else's home when you are used to being in charge of your own.